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Our Africa specialist, Adele Jones, recently returned from a solo 10-night adventure in Botswana. She shared her favourite moments with us, from meeting the legendary ‘Chobe Angels’ to being dazzled by the zebra migration in Makgadikgadi Pans and discovering the spectacular wildlife of the Okavango Delta.
Set the scene: where, when and how long for?
I travelled in April and spent 10 days on a safari circuit with Desert & Delta Safaris who have eight lodges in prime locations across Botswana. During my trip, I explored Moremi Game Reserve, Chobe National Park, the Okavango Delta and Makgadikgadi Pans. The country’s landscapes are incredibly diverse – each stop felt like a new adventure.
Was April a good time to visit Botswana?
April is the tail end of the ‘green season’ and, in my opinion, an excellent time to explore Botswana. While many people aim for the dry summer months of July and August for higher water levels in the delta, this also means higher prices. I found the shoulder season (April to June and November to early December) fantastic. I saw all the wildlife that I wanted to see and enjoyed all the must-do activities – boating, walking safaris and mokoro trips – but at a better price and with fewer people around. Plus, in many lodges, there are no single supplements in April and May, which is a bonus for solo travellers.
Why is Botswana different from other safari destinations?
I’d say it’s the waterways, unique experiences and how close you can get to the wildlife. The water-based activities, like poling through the waters on a mokoro, are unmatched in Africa. You’re at eye level with wildlife, embracing intricate, easy-to-miss details in a silent and surreal setting. One morning in the Okavango Delta, it was just me and the poler; we watched a river otter fishing, saw tiny Angolan bullfrogs hopping through the reeds and brightly feathered kingfishers taking flight.
Another reason is the peace and quiet. Unlike some safari hotspots where there are many vehicles, game drives in Botswana offer a more immersive, unhurried experience.
What sets Botswana apart for safari adventures?
Botswana’s government is focused on sustainability, aiming to keep the fragile ecosystems and wildlife areas pristine. With a limited number of lodges, visitor numbers stay low, which drives up demand and prices. While this makes it more expensive than other safari spots, the exclusivity and tranquillity are worth it.
How would you describe Botswana’s top safari spots in a nutshell?
Luxe lodgings: which hotel wowed you and why?
My absolute favourite was Camp Xakanaxa in Moremi Game Reserve. There’s something magical about its authentic, homely, and relaxed atmosphere. One of my best memories is sitting on the wooden deck by the Khwai River, enjoying G&Ts from the bar while listening to the symphony of nature.
We were lucky to spot the Pel’s Fishing Owl in camp, a rare bird that’s a true Holy Grail for birders – people from other camps travelled to our lodge just to catch a glimpse.
Any unexpected highlights?
While staying at Leroo La Tau, I got to see the zebra migration, which occurs twice a year in Botswana from December to January and March to May. Everyone’s heard of the wildebeest migration in the Serengeti and Maasai Mara, but the lesser-known zebra migration is the second-largest mass movement of animals in Africa. From my balcony, I had a front-row seat to this spectacle. It was amazing to see thousands of zebras running alongside the river below, with elephants joining in the action. It was a standout highlight for me.
What story from your trip do you never tire of telling?
One unforgettable moment was during a 4×4 safari in Moremi Game Reserve with our guide, Harry. He was tracking two leopards that had been spotted earlier. Harry was hyper-focused, making hand gestures at the side of the road. We had no idea what he was doing – he was reading animal tracks that we couldn’t even see. As we got closer, he was saying, “They are about 100 metres away. Now 50 metres.” A guide from a different lodge insisted the leopards had been there earlier and left, but Harry was adamant. A few minutes later, we turned a corner and saw a mother leopard and her cub walking in the middle of the road. It was mind-blowing. I was in awe of the guides expertise and precision on every safari we went on.
What other extraordinary experiences would you recommend?
Sleeping under the stars on the vast Makgadikgadi Salt Pans is a must-do from Leroo La Tau. With no light pollution, you’re literally under a celestial canvas, seeing all the stars and hearing the sounds of the night, like close-by elephants crunching across the clay to the grasslands. It’s a sensory experience that keeps you alert – you won’t get much shuteye, but you’ll remember it forever. This is a seasonal activity, but if you get the chance, don’t miss it. You can also marvel at the night sky from an elevated deck at Camp Okavango or during the Tsodilo Hills sleep out, a new overnight experience available from Nxamaseri Island Lodge.
I also recommend a scenic helicopter flight over the Okavango Delta. Seeing the weaving, fan-like channels from a bird’s eye view is breathtaking.
What were the dining experiences like?
I loved the sociable, communal dining at the camps, with Chobe Game Lodge being the exception, offering à la carte dining. The food was tasty and hearty, often featuring staples like pap (a maize dish similar to polenta), vegetables and a meat or fish dish. Before dinner, we were introduced to the menu and the wine pairings chosen by the sommelier.
Besides breakfast, lunch and dinner, I enjoyed the high tea before game drives, with little sandwiches, pizzas and quiche to fuel the next adventure. Sundowners out in the bush were a special treat too. At the end of one game drive in Moremi Game Reserve, we were thrilled to find a full bar set up in the middle of the bush with canapés and drinks. My top tip: ask for an Okavango gin. It’s smooth and sustainably produced by a local company.
What are your tips for planning a Botswana safari?
Due to the limited number of small camps and lodges – some with as few as 12 rooms – it’s best to book your trip 10-12 months in advance, especially for peak season. When packing, bring binoculars, a good camera and plenty of sun protection, including a hat and sunglasses. The glare from the water can be intense. And don’t worry about overpacking clothes; laundry is complimentary at all the lodges, so you can have your items cleaned and returned by 4 pm the same day.
How do Desert and Delta Safaris champion sustainability?
Desert and Delta Safaris are commended for their green practices. They use solar power for electricity and hot water – the staff are genuinely excited to show you their solar farms. Chobe Game Lodge is especially noteworthy; you can take a behind-the-scenes tour to see it all in action. Their recycling and waste management and their water conservation efforts, like using purified water in glass bottles and recycling greywater for irrigation, are impressive. They also support local communities by sourcing food locally and creating jobs. Plus, they work with groups like Elephants Without Borders to protect wildlife and help local farming communities deal with wildlife conflicts.
How did travelling with Desert and Delta Safaris elevate your experience?
Quite simply, it was their people. I met so many fascinating characters. The phrase “happy staff, happy guests” comes to mind; you can tell they love their jobs and are supported in all aspects, from wellness to promotions. All the guides are local Batswana and meeting the “Chobe Angels,” Africa’s first all-female guiding team at Chobe Game Lodge, was truly inspiring. They have big personalities and their knowledge of the wildlife is astounding. You know they are the best in the business when other guides from nearby camps try to follow them on safari.
To start planning your Botswana holiday, call Adele and the team on 0808 239 0555, fill out our enquiry form or arrange a phone or video appointment.
Adele has been travelling for 21 years, with plenty of time in Kenya, Tanzania, South Africa, Zimbabwe and Botswana. As a keen wildlife enthusiast she is fascinated by seeing wild animals in their natural environment, as well as understanding how landscape and topography drive their behavioural patterns. Her experience in Africa got off to a memorable start, with a sighting of a wild dog pack within 10-minutes of landing on her first ever safari trip!
Your journey will start with one of our UK team – someone like Laura, who's travelled extensively in South Africa. They’ll shape your ideas into the trip of a lifetime. But they won't do it alone. They'll draw on the expertise of our contacts on the ground, connecting you to the people who'll make your holiday one you'll always remember - ex banker who can show you the hottest foodie spots in Cape Town, the award-winning young sommelier who can introduce you to Stellenbosch's finest wines and the walking safari ranger who can guide you to the best game.
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