Tibetan Retreats and Toy Trains in the Western Himalayas

Wagah Border Excursion, Amritsar

Amritsar

When you arrive at the Wagah-Attari border closing ceremony, otherwise known as the ‘flag lowering ceremony,’ you might think you’ve arrived at a football match rather than the meeting of two ideologically opposing countries. Despite the historical tension, every evening, both countries come together to celebrate the closing of the border. It’s more like a flamboyant performance to the tune of patriotic music and there’s still some harmless rivalry though which makes it good fun.

When you arrive at the Wagah-Attari border closing ceremony, otherwise known as the ‘flag lowering ceremony,’ you might think you’ve arrived at a football match rather than the meeting of two ideologically opposing countries. Despite the historical tension, every evening, both countries come together to celebrate the closing of the border. Since 1959, Indians have gathered on one side of a paved promenade while the Pakistan contingent sit on the other.

Both the Indian Border Security Force and Pakistan Rangers dressed in official uniform march down the road past cheering crowds. It’s more like a flamboyant performance to the tune of patriotic music than anything else - synchronised dance movements with slick salutes and high kicks among the many moves on show. There’s still some harmless rivalry though which makes it good fun. The soldiers even sculpt their moustaches in a bid to intimidate their opponents. This all culminates in the lowering of both countries’ flags at the same time as the sun goes down, ending in handshakes between the Indian and Pakistani military.

Back to itinerary

Day of the Buddha

Dharamshala

Experience Buddhist culture in Dharamshala on this full-day tour, with visits to Tibetan temples, nunneries and the Dalai Lama’s monastery complex. Start with a Kora around the residence of his holiness, this is a Tibetan Buddhist ritual of walking in a clockwise direction around a sacred site. You’ll see prayer flags and old ladies spinning prayer wheels and chanting – the views of the mountains are also spectacular and, if the weather is clear, you can see the Kangra Valley below. You will get to visit the main temple where the Dalai Lama conducts his teachings as well as the Kalachakra temple with its murals of tantric deities.

Experience Buddhist culture in Dharamshala on this full-day tour, with visits to Tibetan temples, nunneries and the Dalai Lama’s monastery complex. Start with a Kora around the residence of his holiness, this is a Tibetan Buddhist ritual of walking in a clockwise direction around a sacred site. You’ll see prayer flags and old ladies spinning prayer wheels and chanting – the views of the mountains are also spectacular and, if the weather is clear, you can see the Kangra Valley below.

You will get to visit the main temple where the Dalai Lama conducts his teachings as well as the Kalachakra temple with its murals of tantric deities. If you’re lucky, you might even get to watch a debate taking place. From there you will be driven to the Gyuto Tantric Monastery where around 700 monks live, it was founded by Tibetans who fled to India. A highlight is watching the monks in yellow hats chanting in the so-called Tantric Choir.

The Buddhist circuit continues at the famous Norbulingka Institute where you’ll learn about their work preserving Tibetan art and culture. They hold workshops in painting, appliqué and wood carving. Lunch will be at the Humming Bird Café, (guest to pay directly) which serves Tibetan cuisine like momos, mutton dishes and vegetable noodle soup. The tour ends with a trip to the Dolma Ling Nunnery, which is the first institute for the higher education of Tibetan Buddhist nuns.

Back to itinerary

Walking Around Garli Village

Foothills of the Himalaya

Take a scenic walk to Garli, which was a thriving village in the sub-Himalayan region until India’s independence. The streets here are cobbled and filled with history, you can still see its grand havelis and Italianate buildings, as well as traditional Kangra and Rajput houses with mud-plastered walls and slate roofs. For those who love heritage and architecture, it’s a real treat.

Take a scenic walk to Garli, which was a thriving village in the sub-Himalayan region until India’s independence. The streets here are cobbled and filled with history, you can still see its grand havelis and Italianate buildings, as well as traditional Kangra and Rajput houses with mud-plastered walls and slate roofs. For those who love heritage and architecture, it’s a real treat.

Most of the buildings have been well looked-after, so you can still enjoy the detailed tiling, towers and stained-glass windows. Led by a guide from Judge’s Court, the walk to Garli takes you through the area’s hills and countryside, surrounded by the backdrop of the Dhauladhar Mountains. Along the way, you’ll learn all about life in the sub-Himalayas and the history of the area, from how Pragpur’s medieval water systems work to stories of local residents and the fortress that was used to defend the area. The trail leads all the way to a wonderful hilltop viewpoint.

Back to itinerary

Chandni Chowk by Night

Delhi

Exploring Chandni Chowk by night gives you a chance to understand the real spirit of Delhi. At night, it’s less crowded so there’s more opportunity to engage with locals and after sunset, Chandni Chowk glows and glitters with store lights. There’s a maze of different streets to discover that specialise in everything from silver and spices to saris and glass bangles. If you want to buy something, you guide will help you haggle, which is a ritual in Old Delhi. The highlight of the trip is trying some of the local food.

Exploring Chandni Chowk by night gives you a chance to understand the real spirit of Delhi. It’s like a movie unfolding around you, a whirl of architecture and food, history and business. At night, it’s less crowded so there’s more opportunity to engage with locals and after sunset, Chandni Chowk glows and glitters with store lights. There’s a maze of different streets to discover that specialise in everything from silver and spices to saris and glass bangles. If you want to buy something, you guide will help you haggle, which is a ritual in Old Delhi.

The tour starts at around 5.30pm exploring on foot, as your guide explains the evolution of Old Delhi. You’ll see various businesses and have the opportunity to sit with people and hear about their lives. You might meet the ear-cleaning-man, who wears a red hat and carries tools to remove wax from people’s ears – it’s a great photo opportunity as is the chai vendors swirling tea in their metal pans. As you walk, your guide will point out religious landmarks like the Sunehri Masjid and Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib, a Sikh temple with a community kitchen.

The highlight of the trip though is always the food. You will have dinner at Karim’s (guest to pay directly), a restaurant that serves Mughlai cuisine. It was set up in the 1940s by Karim, a chef who served in the kitchen of a Mughal emperor and wanted to introduce this food to ordinary people. The dishes have a Persian influence and include lots of bread and kormas, all cooked in an open kitchen. Afterwards, wander around the street food area where you can sample desserts like bread pudding and mango ice cream. You’ll get to try everything from samosas to chai – food is a very important part of experiencing Old Delhi.

Back to itinerary