Exploring India's Intriguing North

All Roads Lead to the Golden Temple

Amritsar

On this tour you will visit the Saragarhi Temple memorial, Jalebiwala Chowk and the gold market, a prelude to the highlight of your tour of Amritsar. Every day an average of 100,000 worshippers enter the gates to Sikkhism’s most sacred site, The Golden Temple. The sight of its structures shimmering in gold leaf and hovering over a body of holy water is quite moving as is a visit to the community kitchens where volunteers feed the streaming devotees.

Start the tour from the British-made town hall before stopping to see the Saragarhi temple memorial where in 1897, 21 Sikhs under British command valiantly fought 10,000 invading Pathans (Afghans). Afterwards, walk the narrow lanes of the holy city passing buildings constructed by Maharaja Ran Jain Singh, founder of the Sikh kingdom of Punjab.

You will also take in the Jalebiwala Chowk (market) where the ill-fated April 1919 protest started resulting in what is known today as the Jallianwala Bagh massacre - the murder of 1500 civilians at the hands of the British Indian army. Today the same street hustles and bustles with activity and has grown a reputation for its delicious yet calorific snacks made of ghee (clarified butter). Hand-pulled rickshaws, locals carrying produce on their heads and people chatting animatedly on street corners make up a thrumming atmosphere. All this below once-grand dilapidating buildings strung with complex wire systems and old peepal trees that run through the architecture so seamlessly you need to do a double take.

Stop at a site traditionally used for mud wrestling and afterwards, Amritsar’s beguiling markets. Each one has its own speciality from literature to glittering wedding bangles to a utensil bazaar selling traditional copper and brass pots and pans on an enormous scale. In the gold market, there’s such an abundance of precious metal that you’ll find people sifting through the drains and literally striking gold.

Consider this the prelude to Amritsar’s greatest treasure, the Golden Temple. Every day an average of 100,000 worshippers enter the gates to Sikkhism’s most sacred site. The sight of its structures shimmering in gold leaf and hovering over a body of holy water is quite moving as is a visit to the community kitchens where volunteers feed the streaming devotees dal, rice and chapatis. After some time here, end at the aforementioned Jallianwala Bagh garden memorial. It’s a sombre, emotional moment but an important one to understand the context of the city as well as an opportunity to see original photographs of Amritsar all those years ago.

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Wagah Border Excursion, Amritsar

Amritsar

When you arrive at the Wagah-Attari border closing ceremony, otherwise known as the ‘flag lowering ceremony,’ you might think you’ve arrived at a football match rather than the meeting of two ideologically opposing countries. Despite the historical tension, every evening, both countries come together to celebrate the closing of the border. It’s more like a flamboyant performance to the tune of patriotic music and there’s still some harmless rivalry though which makes it good fun.

Since 1959, Indians have gathered on one side of a paved promenade while the Pakistan contingent sit on the other. Both the Indian Border Security Force and Pakistan Rangers dressed in official uniform march down the road past cheering crowds. Synchronised dance movements with slick salutes and high kicks are among the many moves on show. The soldiers even sculpt their moustaches in a bid to intimidate their opponents. This all culminates in the lowering of both countries’ flags at the same time as the sun goes down, ending in handshakes between the Indian and Pakistani military.

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The Scenic Route to the Summer Capital of Shimla

Shimla

There are two ways to get to Shimla. One is on a road – the quickest option - and the other is along a snaking railway track through the Himalayan mountains aboard the UNESCO toy train. This route was carved by the British Raj who appointed Shimla as its summer capital. The whole journey from top to bottom takes around five and a half hours, but you will be shown the most scenic portion of the route.

Starting in Shimla, at an elevation of around 7,000 feet you will board the 10.30am train towards the small town of Taradevi sitting at approximately 6,000 feet. Curving around the mountain at a leisurely pace of about seven miles per 45 minutes, it gives you ample time to soak up the stunning views from all angles, the breeze carrying the scent of pine through the open windows. You’ll cross picturesque bridges that have stood the test of time and whenever the train passes through a tunnel all the Indian passengers shout with excitement!

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Half Day Visit to Amber Fort

Jaipur

Jaipur has so many beautiful monuments, Amber Fort being the most impressive at 1,000 years old, located high on a hill, surrounded by the Aravalli mountains. The rampart is around 11km long and in some ways looks like the Great Wall of China.

Founded in the 16th century by the great commander of the Mughal rulers, Raja Man Singh, the whole palace is divided into four levels each with their own courtyard. Enter through the east-facing Sun Gate used by the maharajas and their VIP guests that in turn opens up to the first courtyard where victory parades would take place.

You will then go through the Singh Pol or the Lion Gate to the Hall of Public Audience filled with beautiful paintings, carved pillars and latticed marble. In the second courtyard, visit a beautiful hammam with stunning views of the Maota Lake below and Saffron Garden, constructed using the well-known star-shaped geometrical architecture attributed to the Mughals. Ganesh Gate, the entry point to the private palace of the maharajas, is one of the most beautiful gates in the world, decorated with countless fresco paintings and semi-precious stones. Inside the complex, you’ll find the Hall of Mirrors, adorned with a ceiling filled with mirror mosaics and colourful glass which used to glitter under candlelight.

Enter the Hall of Pleasure used as a summer retreat with white marble and walls made of sandalwood that would perfume the evening air. You can’t miss the oldest part of the Amber Fort where Man Singh’s 12 wives were kept in apartments. Each room has a secret passage to the maharaja’s palace!

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Temples & Havelis of Old Jaipur

Jaipur

On this Jaipur walking tour, you’ll join locals for early-morning temple visits and have tea with families in their historic havelis. Jaipur is unique because it was the first planned city in India and many artists and craftsmen were invited to settle here. As you wander the streets of the walled city you can sample street food and see the mix of Bengali, Mughal and Hindu architecture.

The tour starts at 8.30am when it’s peaceful, before the bazaars and markets take over. This is when locals go to worship and you can join them at one of the city’s oldest temples, which is known for its 300-year-old fresco painting and set in a private family home. This begins a discussion about religion and architecture in Jaipur; where at a junction in the city, you get to see a Jain Temple, a mosque and a Hindu temple.

Continue the walk at Broad Road, which was once used by the royal family, so it’s lined by grand houses. As you enter the winding by-lanes you’ll hear about Jaipur’s history as the first planned city in India, the vastu shastra and shilpa shastra architecture and havelis owned by artists, craftsmen and traders. You’ll get to meet some of these characters when you visit the metal-beating community who still work without technology, in the same way they have for 200 years. It’s fascinating to see how everything has been hand-created. Other key architectural sights on the tour include the City Palace, the Ayurvedic hospital and two huge, 10-foot-tall silver jars which belonged to a king of Jaipur. Guests love visiting a local family in their haveli to chat about life in Jaipur and meeting traditional bangle makers.

You will end the tour with an immersion into some of Jaipur’s hectic markets. There’s the spice market with over 300 shops which draws buyers from far and wide, followed by the vegetable and flower markets. The flower market is always busy with people shopping for weddings and festivals. This tour is a great orientation of Jaipur; you’ll discover its architecture, religion and crafts and meet the locals, learning the stories and legends behind the city.

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Taj Mahal by Sunrise

Agra

Every day, the Taj Mahal, India’s most famous World Heritage Site, will see on average 15,000 people. Visit at dawn though and you cut those numbers right down resulting in a more peaceful stroll around the magnificent monuments. The early hours really are the best time to visit when you can just sit quietly and listen to the birds as you take in its architectural beauty.

When the sun starts to rise on a clear day, you can see the mausoleum turn from gold yellow to orange to a sparkling mountain white. You can roam the splendid gardens decorated with fountains and inspect the ornamental craftwork without the crowds. As the sun slowly bathes the walls, the stunning pietra dura inlay lights up the whole façade. This only occurs during the hours of dawn and makes the early start well worth it.

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Discover the Stories of Iconic Mughal Women

Agra

Discover the untold stories of Agra’s Mughal women on this local walking tour. You’ll be led by Mehir, an artist who grew up in Agra and knows the city intimately. She can show you Agra through her eyes and share what life is like for women today in India. It provides a fresh perspective that you then carry on your journey across India. During the tour, you’ll also get to meet and interact with women who live in Agra now.  Travellers love this contemporary view and having the chance to meet and hear about the real women of Agra.

Discover the untold stories of Agra’s Mughal women on this local walking tour. You’ll be led by Mehir, an artist who grew up in Agra and knows the city intimately. She can show you Agra through her eyes and share what life is like for women today in India. It provides a fresh perspective that you then carry on your journey across India.

As Mehir guides you through the city, she’ll show you key monuments that have either been built by women or inspired by them. Many people don’t realise that the women of the Mughal dynasty like Khanzada Begum and Mumtaz Mahal were a powerful force who shaped politics and culture. You’ll stop at the Itmad ud Daulah, which is known as the baby Taj as it served as inspiration for the Taj Mahal itself. It’s a majestic, white-marble monument that resembles a jewellery box, built by Mehr-un-Nissa as a tomb for her father. An emperor’s wife, Mehr was one of the most famous women of her era.

During the tour, you’ll also get to meet and interact with women who live in Agra now. Mehir will introduce you to various artists and jewellery makers, a flower garland specialist and Zardozi embroiderer. You’ll get to chat and learn about their lives as modern women in Agra. Travellers love this contemporary view and having the chance to meet and hear about the real women of Agra.

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Uncover Old and New Delhi with a Savvy Local

Delhi

With a diverse population of around 25 million, Delhi is a hub for Indian politics, delicious food and boasts the country’s largest wholesale markets. The tour starts in Old Delhi visiting Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque. Later take a cycle rickshaw through the famous Chandni Chowk bazaar before exploring the sights in New Delhi.

Most people use Delhi as a transit to other places but there’s so much the capital has to offer that time spent here is time well spent. With a diverse population of around 25 million, it’s a hub for Indian politics, delicious food and boasts the country’s largest wholesale markets.

First time visitors generally assume that Old Delhi is the oldest part of the city but the oldest part is in fact located in New Delhi and around 1,200 years old. Old Delhi was the walled city out of Delhi’s seven medieval cities. Shahjahanbad, as it was originally called, was founded by the Mughal Emperor in 1648 who, when he moved the Mughal capital from Agra, built landmarks such as the resplendent Red Fort.

The tour starts in Old Delhi visiting Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque, and then, on a cycle rickshaw, explore the famous Chandni Chowk bazaar where little has changed over 370 years. Then it’s onto Raj Ghat, a beautiful memorial to Mahatama Gandhi before venturing to New Delhi driving by the government buildings including Parliament and the old Viceroy’s House built by the British.

After a break for lunch, you will visit Humayun’s tomb that inspired the Taj Mahal. The final stop is the UNESCO-credited Qutab Minar especially stunning when illuminated in the evening.

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Chandni Chowk by Night

Delhi

Exploring Chandni Chowk by night gives you a chance to understand the real spirit of Delhi. At night, it’s less crowded so there’s more opportunity to engage with locals and after sunset, Chandni Chowk glows and glitters with store lights. There’s a maze of different streets to discover that specialise in everything from silver and spices to saris and glass bangles. If you want to buy something, you guide will help you haggle, which is a ritual in Old Delhi. The highlight of the trip is trying some of the local food.

The tour starts at around 5.30pm exploring on foot, as your guide explains the evolution of Old Delhi. You’ll see various businesses and have the opportunity to sit with people and hear about their lives. You might meet the ear-cleaning-man, who wears a red hat and carries tools to remove wax from people’s ears – it’s a great photo opportunity as is the chai vendors swirling tea in their metal pans. As you walk, your guide will point out religious landmarks like the Sunehri Masjid and Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib, a Sikh temple with a community kitchen.

The highlight of the trip though is always the food. You will have dinner at Karim’s (guest to pay directly), a restaurant that serves Mughlai cuisine. It was set up in the 1940s by Karim, a chef who served in the kitchen of a Mughal emperor and wanted to introduce this food to ordinary people. The dishes have a Persian influence and include lots of bread and kormas, all cooked in an open kitchen. Afterwards, wander around the street food area where you can sample desserts like bread pudding and mango ice cream. You’ll get to try everything from samosas to chai – food is a very important part of experiencing Old Delhi.

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