On the road in New Zealand

Glaciers that glint like diamonds, snow-capped peaks and storybook towns: New Zealand's landscapes set the stage for some seriously epic travel tales. Our expert Charlotte took off on a two-week trip across the Land of the Long White Cloud; here she shares her highlights.

Auckland: where it all begins

Our adventure kicked off on the North Island in Auckland, the cosmopolitan capital. First stop? The All Blacks Experience. This interactive attraction celebrates New Zealand’s passion for rugby, bringing the team’s legacy and culture to life. We strolled through the city to the harbour, dotted with designer shops and lively waterside restaurants. After a cocktail at sky-high Bar Albert, we called it a night to reset after the long flight.

The next day, a ferry whisked us to Waiheke, an island of walking trails, olive groves and golden beaches. It’s a delight for food and wine lovers – while you won’t find the famed Sav Blanc here, you will find exquisite Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Albariño. We enjoyed wine tasting and a lunch platter at Batch Winery, followed by a visit to Alpress Olive Gardens for an olive oil tasting to round off the day.

I’d recommend two nights in Auckland if you want to see the little gems outside the city; otherwise, one night is enough before you hit the road and explore.

Glow worms, geysers and life in the Shire

Onwards to the Waitomo Caves, home to a galaxy of glow worms. We joined a guided tour through the caves, learning about how they were discovered and the Māori stories tied to the area. Boating silently through the darkened caves with their blue-green glow reflecting off the water felt magical. Don’t forget to bring a coat as it’s chilly and wear sturdy shoes like trainers – flip-flops won’t cut it!

Next, we stepped into the Hobbiton Movie Set. Even as a non-fan, I loved the charm and level of detail, from the intricate carvings in the hobbit dwellings to the perfectly poured ale at The Green Dragon™ Inn.

In Rotorua, we headed to Te Puia for a traditional Maori buffet and a moving haka performance. Outside, we sipped hot chocolate and watched geothermal geysers erupt against the steaming landscape. Te Puia also has a kiwi conservation centre, where you can see these iconic nocturnal birds – visit before dinner, as they’ll likely be asleep later in the evening.

Christchurch: the ‘Garden City’

Flying into Christchurch, our day began with a sunrise soak at He Puna Taimoana Hot Pools. Watching the Pacific sparkle while relaxing in the water was a lovely introduction to the South Island.

In the city centre, we punted along the River Avon and strolled through its leafy parks, framed by blossoms, botanical plants and bridges. We hopped on the historic tram for a relaxed ride through the streets and finished the day at the International Antarctic Centre – one of only five official gateways into Antarctica – where we learned about life on the coldest continent and braved a freezing blizzard (more fun than it sounds!).

Christchurch often gets overlooked when planning a New Zealand itinerary but spending one or two nights here is well worth it. The city has come a long way since the devastating 2011 earthquake and visiting is a chance to support a community that continues to rebuild and move forward.

Rails, rocks and brews

The TranzAlpine train journey, running coast to coast between Christchurch and Greymouth, was a highlight for me. If you can, upgrade to the stylish Scenic Plus carriage. It’s not just the Alps views that’ll wow you, but the elevated experience board – expect great service, gourmet meals and flowing drinks to toast the scenery.

Greymouth is great for breweries and proper Kiwi pubs. Next, we dropped into the famous Monteith’s, where they showed us how their award-winning craft beer is made – and naturally, we sampled a few. On the way to the glacier region, we checked out the Pancake Rocks and blowholes at Punakaiki. The blow holes shoot water into the air like natural geysers, best seen at high tide. It’s a must-see stop that adds a bit of drama to the drive down the West Coast.

Glacier thrills and turquoise chills

The West Coast’s natural beauty took my breath away. Hokitika Gorge was stunning, with luminous turquoise waters created by glacier minerals. Surrounded by granite cliffs and tangled ferns, it’s a place you’ll want to linger, just taking it all in.

At Coal Creek Falls, we hiked through jungle-like trails to a pretty waterfall, perfect for a refreshing wild swim. On Lake Mapourika, a short boat trip brought the wildlife into focus. We saw native white herons, uncovered a kiwi burrow and learned about vital conservation efforts helping to protect New Zealand’s rarest species.

Then it was onto the glaciers. We soared over Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers in a helicopter, landing on the ice to take in their immense scale and jagged beauty. For those up for more adventure, the heli-hike adds another level: navigating through crevasses, weaving between ice towers and squeezing into shimmering blue caves.

Queenstown: beyond the bungee

Queenstown may be known as the adventure capital, with heart-racing activities like bungee and jet boating on offer, but it’s also got a quiet side. If you’d rather swap adrenaline for relaxation, there’s plenty to enjoy at a slower pace. We opted for a vintage steamboat cruise onboard TSS Earnshaw to Walter Peak, soaking up the character of the ship and the stunning views along the way.

On the drive, we took a detour to Kinross Winery, where the cosy cottages and picnic-ready vineyards were made for kicking back with a glass (or two) of their amazing wine. Kinross is just one of the standout stops on our Queenstown Wine Sampler tour, a six hour whirlwind through Gibbston's best cellar doors, with plenty of Chenin and Chardonnay along the way. 

A popular trip from Queenstown is a day trip to ever-pleasing Milford Sound. On a clear day, the alpine scenery is spectacular, with misty fiords, cascading waterfalls and towering cliffs, which you’ll see on the drive down and on deck during a sightseeing cruise.

Peaks, lakes and starry nights

The drive to Mount Cook was something else – all towering peaks and open skies. At Tasman Glacier, we watched icebergs drift past while the low rumble of avalanches echoed in the distance. You have to stay in The Hermitage Hotel to see the showstopping views of Mount Cook from the rooms and restaurant.

Over in Lake Tekapo, we soaked in the thermal hot springs before checking out the Dark Sky Reserve. On a clear night, the sky is packed with constellations, shooting stars and the Milky Way. And if the clouds roll in, the Dark Sky Experience’s VR show is a solid plan B.

Dolphins and a final dinner

Our final stop was Akaroa, a French-inspired seaside village near Christchurch. We took to the water on a Black Cat Cruise, where Hector’s dolphins swam right up to the boat, playful and completely unbothered by their audience. It’s not every day you get to see one of the world’s rarest dolphins up close.

Back in the village, we wandered through the boutique shops then returned to Christchurch for a lavish gala dinner to wrap up the trip. Two weeks of adventure, wildlife and jaw-dropping scenery deserved a send-off like that.

Charlotte’s top tips for New Zealand

Book ahead: Secure spots for must-dos like Hobbiton and glacier tours well in advance.

Plan with expert help: Use our suggested tours as a guide then we’ll help make the trip yours.

Mix it up: Combine North and South Island highlights for a well-rounded adventure.

Pack smart: Layers are essential. You’ll likely experience four seasons in a single day!

This feature was created on 16th January 2025. The information within this feature is correct to the best of our knowledge at the time of print.